Diplomatic Surfer
X-diplomat, surfer and woman full of words. So I write. On my blog, in the dim light of winter afternoons, on napkins, toilet walls and anywhere else I can get away with it.
check out my blog at www.diplomaticsurfing.com
X-diplomat, surfer and woman full of words. So I write. On my blog, in the dim light of winter afternoons, on napkins, toilet walls and anywhere else I can get away with it.
check out my blog at www.diplomaticsurfing.com
New blog post - long in the making, but worth the wait! check it out at www.diplomaticsurfing.com
or read on :-)
Winter dreams
Slow winter life has arrived. It is, as if, the fluids of the world have begun to freeze in their veins, and coagulating into frozen lumps, they slow to a standstill. To the untrained eye it seems that everything has stopped, and that the world, before so alive and vibrant, has turned to stone and stands immobile, while time ticks on. However, things are seldom what they seem. The world may be dormant in winter, but it is not dead. Below the surface small green seeds push and struggle higher and higher through the cold ground towards the solid crust that contains them until spring. And in the midst of this stillness change announces itself with violent noise like icebergs breaking off the inland ice after having been attached to it for million of years, and then everything happens all at once.
For a surfer, winter life is first and foremost boring. There are no waves, and if there are, they are cold as the grave. So regardless of the seal of the individual surfer, winter is the season to wait, to get fat and to order new boards over the internet, as if the act of acquiring another board would somehow bring one closer to spring. And it is the season to hatch dreams. They grow relentlessly under the surface during winter’s spell, and this winter, the dreams grow particularly wild and strong under the calm appearance of our diplomatic surfer’s life. It is, as if, the dreams are taking revenge for the years, where she forgot that she is a dreamer, and they are shooting small green arms in all directions, and getting tangled into each other, making it impossible to figure out, which dream to follow. And choosing a good dream, is not something that should be done lightly. Some dreams are flaky, and although attractive and interesting and funny, you somehow manage to leave them behind on a greasy barstool, somewhere in the night, and when you return home you once again find yourself dreamless. Dreams have to be long enough, and detailed enough, for you to spend your life inside them, otherwise you will outgrown them as quickly, as you left behind your belief in Santa Claus. Dreams are demanding bastards too – they don’t let you be. After a long boring day at work, where all you want to do it drink tea on the couch with a good book, the dream starts nagging you: “When are we going to do something together? When are you going to ask me out?” and soon the few hours of piece and quiet you had foreseen are wrecked. So before you decide to go chasing after them like a dog after a stick, you have to be sure that your dream is worth the hassle.
Obviously, the right dream for our surfer girl involves surfing, but surfing comes in many different forms and shapes. Touring the world with surfing as a sport, backed by sponsorships and competition money. Moving to a warm country with mellow breaks, where your little money will go along away. Finding a job that can get you posted in a city close to the water, where surfing is an option every weekend. As she walks the winter streets, these ideas grow and then suddenly fade, as she thinks of all the obstacles, which has to be passed on the way, and then they grow again as she regains her determination to live a dreamer’s life. There are still so many unknowns in the equation, but there is an unquestionable happiness inside her, when she thinks of tilting her board against the shaded bricks of a future home, after returning from a long day in the waves. Change is pushing its way through her veins, here in the winter cold. The ice is creaking in our surfer girl’s life, but the myriad of dreams are still pulling her in different directions. She cannot yet predict what shape the iceberg will take, but all those winter dreams are pushing her towards the sea.
Waiting for a storm
It seems that the whole world is standing still. Holding its breath in anticipation of something. Something that will shake it and rearrange everything. Something that will arrive abruptly and without warning. But it is not here yet, and so everything is hushed and unnaturally immobile. This stiff stillness has also crept into our diplomatic surfer’s world. She is waiting for everything. For waves, for jobs and for a master plan to form inside her head. Flat-spells is something that happens to all surfers, and however brave the surfer, it is always disheartening. The coastlines surrounding her are flat and windy, and the sky outside her window is constantly grey. Winter is approaching fast, and the sea is only getting colder and colder. She know that something has to happen soon, but for the moment, she is caught, as if enchanted, in a limbo between easy summer life and that – whatever it is – which is to happen next. The only momentous movement in sight is a hurricane named Sandy, which on the other side of the Atlantic is shaking everything to smithereens. This hurricane is bound to push a few big swells towards Europe in the next couple of weeks, and perhaps, Sandy will also bring a few winds of change. Uplifted by this prospect, our diplomatic surfer girl, resolves to dig up a little more patience and get prepared for a freezing day of waves, which surely is already on its way across the Atlantic.
Ready for the storm
New blog post and essential knowledge about surfing and diplomacy at www.diplomaticsurfing.com
New blog post at www.diplomaticsurfing.com - you should check it out!
Diplomatic Surfer ∙ 22 weeks ago
New blog post for you guys at www.diplomaticsurfing.com
Waves of the desert
The first surf after a long period without any wave action is inevitably approached with a significant amount of pent-up excitement. The winter months spent thinking, dreaming and fantasising about waves, have a tendency to build up immense expectations to that first “swoosh” down a perfectly sloped, gleaming blue wave. It is not surprising then that our surfer girl wakes up, on her first morning in Morocco, with a big smile on her face and a stomach full of butterflies. She doesn’t have the mental capacity to pay attention to anything else than getting to her first waves, and everything seems to happen in fast-forward mode, until she gets out of the car at a lookout point above a beach break called Banana beach, a short drive from Taghazout. She finds herself on a rock-shelf high above the beach, where the dirt road passes by on its way down to the beach, and from where it is possible to observe the waves as well as the surfers, who are already in the water. The waves rise out of the horizon, as the water is pushed towards the shore and the sandbanks that lie in front of it. Small bumps of water form on the surface of the sea and move in perfect straight lines towards the shore. As they approach they grow bigger and steeper, until a moment, when they seemingly defy gravity for a few seconds, and the top of the waves is tilted in front of the bottom part of the wave, suspended in the air. Then suddenly the top edge of the waves starts to foam and the wave collapses onto itself in a fury of white water. She notices a few good surfers out there. They seem to be catching waves in a non-stop motion, cutting across the waves from left to right with sharp turns up and down the face of the wave, and then as quickly as they can paddle back out to the line up, they seem to catch another wave. Other surfers are less fortunate, more timid or hopeless at spotting the take-off point, and they sit for long periods waiting between mostly unsuccessful attempting to paddle for waves, giving way to other surfers, and only once in a while do they succeed in catching a wave for themselves. She also notices a couple of beginners with huge boards trying to pass through the white water. Like small twigs in a river, they are constantly being thrown back towards the beach. Their arms are moving like drumsticks, but each time a new wave comes frothing towards them, they are being pushed backwards and they only succeed in moving sideways, as they drift with the current towards Agadir. Amusing as it is to watch them (mostly because she, too clearly, remembers how is feel to be stuck in the impact zone), she does not stick around to see, if they eventually have luck to succeed. Rather she quickly continues towards the beach, jumps in her crackling dry wetsuit, runs into the sea with her board and joins them in their pursuit to conquer those desert waves.
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